Dailey Woodworks

Reclaimed Staircase

Rustic Pine Staircase, Reclaimed Pine Staircase and Handrails

I love projects like this! We took a boring and unsafe staircase and made it beautiful and safe.  Using clear southern yellow pine for the treads and reclaimed pine beams and lumber we created a unique rustic staircase that suits this barndominium.

Unfinished OSB Staircase

Like most staircases, this one started with OSB.  If you have an ugly staircase, don’t worry, it can be transformed into something that suits your home and style.

You’ll notice that this staircase does not have any kind of handrail or safety rail.  It was quite unsettling at the top which is about 14ft.  A proper handrail that meets code is essential for safety and ease of use.

This is the outside or barn area so there was really no need to do what we did here.  A simple handrail would have been fine.  However, we are slowly taking this area and polishing it up to look like the beautiful rustic home on the inside.  I think we succeeded.

For the treads and landings, we used clear Southern Yellow Pine.  Using Clear Pine for the stair treads vs Knotty Pine stair treads costs more but yields a better result.  Clear pipe lumber is more stable than knotty pine so there will be less chance of splits, warps, cupping, or twisting later on.

DIY Rustic Pine Stair Treads for a Farmhouse Staircase in a barndominium
Clear Southern Yellow Pine Stair Treads

The handrails are made with reclaimed lumber.  The story behind the lumber is really cool.  The barndominium is built on land that has been on this family for generations and is near what amounts to a little ghost town outside of Caldwell, Texas.  In this community there once was a store.  The store belonged to my client’s grandmother.  Many years after the store was closed it was torn down and much of the lumber was saved.  This is the lumber we used for the handrails.

rustic farmhouse staircase with reclaimed lumber handrails
Handrails made from reclaimed pine

To hold the posts in place we cut a half-lap joint in the wood so that it could sit partly on the treads and be connected to the sides with lag bolts.  This makes for an incredibly strong post that won’t be going anywhere.

Once everything was installed we sanded everything and started the finishing process.

The prep for finishing is always time-consuming but is the key to a great looking finish.  We spend about 4-5 hours filling nail holes and sanding everything up to 220 grit.  After thoroughly cleaning off the dust we started from the top and worked our way to the bottom staining all the treads with English Chestnut by Minwax.

Sealing the treads was the same process of starting from the top and working our way to the bottom.  We did two coats of Minwax Polyurethane for Floors. I absolutely recommend going with the oil-based formula.  You’ll need mineral spirits to clean it up but an oil-based polyurethane will hold up longer than a water-based polyacrylic.

Here are the finished treads with the risers done

The final step was to build a safety gate for the top landing.  My client’s children and grandchildren come to visit and keeping the grandbabies safe is crucial.  We built these gates out of reclaimed lumber in the same way we build our custom barn doors.

 

This was a great project and the second I have done for this great clients.  We built a Murphy Bed for her last her and we have several more improvement to make to this barndominium in the future.

If you live in the Brazos Valley we are happy to help you with your next carpentry, remodeling, or home improvement project.  We serve Bryan, College Station, Caldwell, Snook, Somerville and surrounding areas.  CONTACT US today to schedule a free estimate.

Want to see how we did it? Watch Below

Tell us what you think in the comments below.

Staining and Sealing Your Woodworking Project is Easier Than You Think!

Many DIYers are happy to paint their projects but freeze when they think about staining it.  Will it look right? Will I ruin it? Where do I start?  Hear is the truth: Staining and sealing your own furniture is easier than painting.  Even if you’ve never attempted to apply stain or apply wipe-on-poly yourself you will get great results if you follow the steps in this Youtube Video.

SEE! So easy only a politician could mess it up!

Here’s the steps and the products I used to finish this Rustic Style Barn Door. 

  1. Always sand your project up to 220 grit: Sand paper I use: Mirka 5-Inch 8-Hole Dustless Hook-and-Loop Sanding Disks
  2. Clean off all the dust with a slightly damp lint free cloth
  3. Apply stain. I like using a brush to get the stain in all the nooks then wipe the extra off with a lint free cloth. The Stain I used on this project is Provincial by Minwax:
  4. 4) Once Dry you will apply a least two coats of Minwax Wipe on Poly, I like Satin:

Now I like to use old based stains and finishes. The results are consistently better than with water based stains and polyurethanes.  If you’re finishing your Wooden Dog Kennel don’t worry once dry it is completely safe.  In fact polyurethane is food safe when fully cured, but I still wouldn’t eat it. Because we’re using oil based products you’ll also want some nitrile gloves and Paint Thinner/Mineral Spirits for clean up.

Here’s a Front Door I refinished following this same process but using exterior grade Spar Urethane.

Not quite up to doing it yourself? Well if you’re in the Brazos Valley Area CONTACT ME and I’ll be happy to help make your home look amazing.

If you have any questions or comments leave them below.

California Closet With a Rustic Twist

I recently completed a huge all-summer-long remodel of a great barn style house.  The house is a two story red barn with full-length porches on the front and back hidden on 18 acres in a rural area.  This house was just on the border of how far I am willing to travel for a project.

I’ll have several posts under the “BarnHouse Renovation” Tag so check it out.

Read more

Office Remodel

I don’t do a lot of commercial work, but I will for certain situations, namely friends.  My mechanic and former employer from WAY back called me to refresh his office space.  I wonder why?

The paneling had to go.  Scratch that,  everything had to go.  We did a full gut of the office space.  Lights, ceilings, walls, floors all replaced.

We had planned on simply replacing the ceiling tiles on the drop ceiling and painting the cross members, but because it was so old it was easily damaged beyond repair.  We redid the entire ceiling and installed new LED office lights.  This was the first and hopefully last drop ceiling I install.  I think it turned out well.

The next phase was drywall.  We did a light knock down texture painted gray.  Trim was a nice cream color and doors a deep red.

The old used-to-be-red vinyl tiles were replaced with a nice ceramic.  This was installed by a sub-contractor as I’m no good at tile work.  

Once the walls were painted, tile work done, and trim installed it was time to install a coffee bar.  We went with a budget friendly option by using inexpensive yet high quality stock cabinets.  These were solid oak face frames and drawer fronts with complete plywood construction.  NEVER buy particle board cabinets.  We stained them and installed them.  A local countertop company installed some nice granite.

Cleaned up and ready to move back in…

Finished

A huge THANK YOU to the owners of B&B Automotive for allowing Dailey Woodworks to renew your office space.  If you live in the Brazos Valley and need a good mechanic they are the people to go to.

Custom Murphy Bed Build

If you live in the Brazos Valley, and would like me to build a custom Murphy Bed for your home contact me for an estimate.

Shortly before Christmas I was commissioned to build a Murphy Bed.  Building a custom Murphy Bed is a project I have been wanting to do for a long time.  My wife and I had talked about building one for our guest/craft room, but it just never seemed to happen.  So when I got the chance to build one I jumped at the opportunity.

After some research we chose to use a professionally made hardware kit from Create-a-Bed.  There are several less expensive ways of putting a bed together but with something like this hacking together a cheap mechanism just creates problems.  By using a high quality hardware kit it saved time and therefore the client money in the end.  Also, the hardware comes with a Lifetime Warranty, which is reassuring.

This is what you get in the kit:
On each side of the Murphy Bed I built a bookcase.  Following the “Rule of thirds” each bookcase is a third of the width of the Murphy bed.  I also set the book shelves back from the face of the Murphy bed for some visual appeal.

(The “Rule of Thirds” refers to the idea that the human eye finds a 1:3 and 2:3 ratio visually appealing.  Take a look at your doors, cabinets, and dressers and you’ll see this in practice). 

We debated painting the bed white, but I’m very happy that we decided to stain it.  To add detail I made a faux door frame once again using the “rule of thirds.” to finish it up I added baseboard and crown molding.  A Murphy Bed can be taken from a ultra modern look to Victorian depending on the details you choose to add, or not add.

The Murphy Bed itself (for the full size, vertical mount) comes out from the wall 16inches, is 82inches tall, and has a width of 60inches (5ft).  Each book case is 82h x 20w x 12d.

The gas struts make raising and lowering the bed easy.  A firm tug lowers the bed and it can be closed with one finger.  My client is a very small person and had no issues raising and lowering the mechanism.

It is necessary to anchor the bed to at least 3 wall studs.  And while it is a semi-permanent addition to your home it can be partially disassembled and moved if the need ever arises.

Murphy Beds can be made to be either vertical or horizontal and are available. in Twin, Full, or Queen sizes.

Rusty’s Remodel Part 3 – Kitchen Remodel

This will be the last post of this series.  There was a lot of painting, drywall repairs throughout the rest of the house. All of which were fairly basic and not “wow” transformational.  The Kitchen, however, was the crowning achievement of this project.

The credit for this Kitchen doesn’t go to me but to Wright Custom Woodworks.  All I did was paint and install the hardware.  Bo, completely changed and refaced the cabinets to a nice modern-classic look.  He’s also a great guy.  I’ve recommended him to several people for custom cabinet work, and will continue to do so.

Here are the Pictures: Click on them to open the gallery.

 

 

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